Walking in Varenna: Sentiero del Viandante & the Best Lake Como Walks

Is Varenna Good for Walking?

Very good, though “walking in Varenna” can mean two quite different things.

You can spend an hour strolling between Varenna-Esino station, the ferry terminal, the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, Piazza San Giorgio and Villa Monastero. Or you can climb several hundred metres above the lake and spend half a day on mountain paths.

The village itself is compact, but it is not flat. Expect:

• stone staircases;
• cobbled lanes;
• steep uphill sections;
• uneven historic paths.

Comfortable shoes make a noticeable difference even if you never set foot on a hiking trail.

1. Varenna Waterfront and Old Town Walk

If this is your first visit, start with the simplest walk. From Varenna-Esino station, head down towards the ferry terminal and continue along the waterfront to the historic centre.

This route combines:

• lake views;
• the Passeggiata degli Innamorati;
• narrow old streets;
• Piazza San Giorgio;
• Villa Cipressi, whose terraced garden you enter with the Villa Cipressi gardens entry ticket ($23, 4.5/5 from 355 reviews);
• Villa Monastero, which you can enter with the Villa Monastero ticket with an aperitif ($75, 4.0/5 from 28 reviews) or a ticket at the gate.

It is not a hike. It is the orientation walk every first visit to Varenna needs.

Allow 1–2 hours if you want to explore side streets as well as walk between the station and Villa Monastero. Our Villa Monastero gardens guide covers the garden itself, and our Villa Cipressi guide the terraces next door.

2. Greenway dei Patriarchi

The Greenway dei Patriarchi suits travellers who want more than a village stroll but do not want a demanding mountain hike.

Varenna Turismo describes it as a 6 km route taking about two hours one way, with roughly 120 metres of elevation difference and an easy difficulty rating. It passes through Varenna and some surrounding hamlets on small streets, paths and short road sections. (Varenna Turismo)

Greenway dei Patriarchi quick facts

• Length: 6 km one way
• Time: around 2 hours
• Difficulty: easy
• Starting altitude: about 200 m
• Maximum altitude: about 320 m
• Elevation difference: around 120 m

The name refers to the “Patriarchs” of Varenna. Residents were once nicknamed after the patriarchal religious rite of Aquileia they followed, and today the word refers affectionately to the town’s oldest residents.

Why walk it?

On the Greenway you see more of Varenna than the waterfront shows. You won’t get one dramatic summit viewpoint; you get a slower sequence of old lanes, local neighbourhoods, hillside scenery, glimpses of Lake Como and quiet corners away from the ferry crowds.

It is a good choice if you are staying overnight, have already seen Villa Monastero and want a relaxed second walk.

3. Walk to Castello di Vezio

If you want the biggest view for a short climb, head to Castello di Vezio. The castle sits high above Varenna with wide views over the central lake.

The castle’s own directions put the main path, which climbs beside the Montecodeno stream, at under 20 minutes if you are fit and about 30 minutes otherwise. A second path, the Scabium, starts opposite Villa Monastero and takes about 40 minutes, mostly in the sun. (Castello di Vezio)

Is the Castello di Vezio walk difficult?

It is short but steep. You do not need exceptional fitness, but you’ll notice the climb, particularly in summer heat.

The route uses old stone paths and uphill lanes, not a smooth modern walkway. Take:

• water;
• comfortable shoes;
• sun protection.

Is the castle walk worth it?

Yes, particularly if you’ve already spent time beside the lake.

Villa Monastero shows you Lake Como almost at water level. Castello di Vezio gives you the reverse view: Varenna below, Bellagio across the water and the shape of the central lake from above.

For a full day in Varenna, the two work very well together. Our Castello di Vezio guide covers opening times and what is inside the walls.

Villa Monastero + Castello di Vezio Walking Itinerary

A good route is:

1. Explore Varenna’s waterfront.
2. Visit Villa Monastero.
3. Have lunch.
4. Climb to Castello di Vezio.
5. Explore the castle.
6. Walk down towards Varenna-Esino station.

The day stays geographically logical and gives you both lake-level and elevated views.

In July and August, avoid starting the steepest climb in the hottest part of the afternoon.

4. Walk to the Fiumelatte Source

Fiumelatte is one of the most interesting short walks near Varenna.

The stream is famous for being so short: about 250 metres from its source to Lake Como, with foaming water that gives it its “river of milk” name. (Varenna Turismo)

It is also seasonal. The water usually appears towards the end of March and stops around October, although rainfall and dry spells can shift those dates.

How to walk to Fiumelatte

From Piazza San Giorgio, head south. After about 200 metres, Via Roma climbs towards the cemetery. From there, steps rise steeply before joining a path along the mountainside to the source.

There is a small picnic area near the source.

Why visit?

Fiumelatte suits you if:

• you want a walk shorter than a full Sentiero del Viandante stage;
• you’re already visiting Villa Monastero;
• you enjoy natural curiosities;
• you want to continue south beyond central Varenna.

Villa Monastero’s garden itself extends towards Fiumelatte, so the two fit naturally into the same part of town.

5. Sentiero del Viandante: What Is It?

The Sentiero del Viandante, or Wayfarer’s Path, is a historic walking route along the eastern side of Lake Como.

It is usually described today as a hiking trail, but it grew out of much older paths connecting settlements along the lake. The official Le Vie del Viandante project describes a route revived for tourism in the late 20th century and now divided into stages along the eastern shore. (Le Vie del Viandante)

The stage sequence includes:

• Sorico → Colico;
• Colico → Dorio;
• Dorio → Dervio;
• Dervio → Bellano;
• Bellano → Varenna;
• Varenna → Lierna;
• Lierna → Abbadia Lariana;
• Abbadia Lariana → Lecco.

That makes Varenna one of the most convenient bases for sampling the trail without committing to the whole route.

6. Bellano to Varenna: Best Sentiero del Viandante Half-Day Walk

For many visitors, Bellano → Varenna is the most practical stage, because you can use the train.

Take the train from Varenna to Bellano, hike back towards Varenna, and finish where you’re staying or sightseeing.

According to the official trail network:

• Distance: 4.8 km
• Time: about 1 hour 40 minutes
• Difficulty: medium
• Ascent: 371 m
• Descent: 247 m

(Le Vie del Viandante)

The route finishes at Vezio above Varenna, not on the waterfront. From there you can walk down into central Varenna or add Castello di Vezio.

Why this route works so well

You walk a real section of the historic trail without giving it the whole day.

A practical itinerary is:

Varenna → train to Bellano → hike Bellano to Vezio → Castello di Vezio → walk down into Varenna

It is one of the most satisfying walking days you can have from Varenna.

Is Bellano to Varenna Suitable for Beginners?

It is officially rated medium, not easy. Expect:

• continuous ups and downs;
• mule tracks;
• some asphalt sections;
• uneven paths;
• a noticeable climb overall.

A reasonably active traveller should manage it in normal conditions, but 4.8 km here takes far longer than a flat 4.8 km city walk. Terrain matters more than distance.

7. Varenna to Lierna: Lower Route

The next stage continues south from Varenna towards Lierna. The official route page lists:

• Distance: 8.5 km
• Time: around 3 hours
• Difficulty: hard
• Ascent: 616 m
• Descent: 752 m

(Le Vie del Viandante)

This is a much more serious outing than the Bellano–Varenna section.

Important Trail Closures and Diversions

Rockfall-protection and maintenance work can affect sections of the trail around Varenna and Fiumelatte; the official Varenna–Lierna page currently carries a diversion notice.

Always check Le Vie del Viandante current notices shortly before hiking, and do not rely on an old GPX file without also checking current trail conditions.

8. Varenna to Lierna: High Route

Experienced hikers can choose the higher variant, which starts at Vezio (358 m) and ends at Lierna station. The official route data gives:

• Distance: 9.7 km
• Time: around 3 hours 30 minutes
• Difficulty: very hard
• Ascent: 704 m
• Descent: 840 m

(Le Vie del Viandante)

The route climbs well above Varenna before continuing towards Lierna. Don’t pick it just for prettier photographs: the extra climbing and difficulty are significant.

Which Direction Should You Walk the Sentiero del Viandante?

If you are based in Varenna, the railway makes one-way walks easy.

Bellano → Varenna

You finish back in Varenna.

Varenna → Lierna

You return by train from Lierna.

That is one of the great advantages of hiking the eastern side of Lake Como: the railway saves you from retracing your route.

Can You Walk from Varenna to Bellagio?

No. Bellagio is on the opposite side of Lake Como.

For ordinary sightseeing, Varenna → Bellagio means the ferry; our Varenna to Bellagio ferry guide covers the crossing. If you want to walk, use the paths north or south along Varenna’s side of the lake.

Which Varenna Walk Has the Best Views?

For the biggest elevated panorama for the least distance: Castello di Vezio.

For a longer sequence of hillside lake views: Sentiero del Viandante.

For easy local scenery: Greenway dei Patriarchi.

For close-up waterfront views: Varenna old town and lakefront.

For a small natural curiosity: Fiumelatte.

Each of these suits a different kind of walker, so pick by the time and energy you have.

Best Walk for a First-Time Visitor

If you have only one day in Varenna, don’t automatically choose the longest hike. A better first-day combination is:

Varenna waterfront → Villa Monastero → Castello di Vezio

That gives you:

• the lakeside village;
• a historic garden;
• a mountain viewpoint.

Save the longer Sentiero del Viandante stage for a second day.

Best Easy Walk in Varenna

The Greenway dei Patriarchi is the best dedicated easy route. Its official difficulty is easy, with about 120 metres of elevation change over 6 km.

“Easy” on Lake Como still doesn’t mean flat, so wear suitable shoes.

Best Half-Day Hike

Bellano → Varenna on the Sentiero del Viandante.

At 4.8 km and around 1 hour 40 minutes of official walking time, it leaves plenty of the day for Vezio or Varenna itself. Add time for breaks and photographs, and do not book your next activity exactly 1 hour 40 minutes after you start.

Best Challenging Walk

The high-route Varenna–Lierna stage. It is for hikers, not for a casual scenic stroll after lunch.

Best Time of Year for Walking in Varenna

Spring

Excellent. Temperatures are usually comfortable, the vegetation is fresh and the trails are more pleasant than in midsummer heat.

Early summer

June gives you long daylight and the full transport timetables. Start longer walks early.

July and August

Possible, but heat is the main problem. Carry water and avoid exposed routes at midday.

September

One of the best months for walking.

October

Often excellent if the weather is settled. Days are shorter, so start longer hikes earlier.

Winter

Some lower routes can be walkable when conditions are safe, but always check for snow, ice and current trail notices.

Our best time to visit Varenna and Villa Monastero guide covers the months in more detail.

What Shoes Do You Need?

For central Varenna, good trainers are normally enough. For the Greenway dei Patriarchi, sturdy walking shoes are sensible. For the Sentiero del Viandante, use proper walking or trail shoes with grip.

Treat the high Varenna–Lierna variant as a real mountain hike, with footwear to match. Avoid smooth-soled fashion shoes on wet or rocky paths.

What Should You Carry?

For longer walks:

• water;
• sun protection;
• a lightweight rain layer;
• a charged phone;
• an offline route or GPX;
• a small snack;
• suitable footwear.

On hot days, carry more water than you expect to need. Do not assume every rural section has cafés or shops.

Should You Download the GPX Track?

For the longer Sentiero del Viandante stages, yes. The official Le Vie del Viandante pages provide route files for individual stages.

A GPX track does not replace checking current trail notices, though. Use both: the route file and the current conditions.

Can You Combine Hiking with the Train?

Yes, and it is one of Varenna’s biggest advantages. For example:

Option 1

Varenna → train to Bellano → walk back.

Option 2

Walk Varenna → Lierna → train back.

You avoid out-and-back hiking, and the trail fits easily into a Lake Como holiday.

Can You Combine Walking with the Ferry?

Yes. A full active day could be:

Morning: short Varenna hike
Lunch: Varenna
Afternoon: ferry to Bellagio

Don’t make a ferry connection too tight after a longer trail. Hiking times vary a lot with fitness, weather, photo stops and trail conditions, so leave yourself some slack.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Varenna good for walking?

Yes. Varenna offers everything from easy local walks to full stages of the Sentiero del Viandante.

What is the Sentiero del Viandante?

It is a historic route along Lake Como’s eastern shore, now organised as a multi-stage walking trail.

Can you walk part of the Sentiero del Viandante from Varenna?

Yes. Varenna sits between the official Bellano–Varenna and Varenna–Lierna stages.

How long is the Bellano to Varenna walk?

The official route is about 4.8 km and 1 hour 40 minutes, with medium difficulty.

How long is Varenna to Lierna?

The standard route is about 8.5 km and 3 hours; the high variant is 9.7 km, about 3 hours 30 minutes and rated very hard.

What is the easiest dedicated walk around Varenna?

The Greenway dei Patriarchi is officially rated easy and runs for about 6 km one way.

How long does it take to walk to Castello di Vezio?

Allow 20–30 minutes uphill on the main path, depending on your pace; the Scabium path from opposite Villa Monastero takes about 40 minutes.

Is Fiumelatte worth walking to?

Yes, if you want a short nature excursion and the seasonal stream is flowing (usually from the end of March to around October).

Can you walk from Varenna to Bellagio?

No. Bellagio is across Lake Como. Take the ferry.

Which Varenna Walk Should You Choose?

For your first few hours in town, stay close to the lake. Walk Varenna’s waterfront, explore the old streets and visit Villa Monastero.

If you have more time and want a viewpoint, climb to Castello di Vezio. For a gentler, longer walk, choose the Greenway dei Patriarchi.

If hiking is part of why you’re coming to Lake Como, use Varenna as a base for the Sentiero del Viandante. The Bellano–Varenna stage is a good introduction: long enough to feel like a real hike, short enough to leave part of the day for Varenna itself.

Check the current trail notices before you set out, because Lake Como’s old paths are steep in places and sections close for maintenance. The view from above Varenna looks quite different from the one beside the water, and that is the reason to make the climb.

Related Reading

• Castello di Vezio guide
• Best Lake Como villages: Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio
• Varenna and Lake Como travel guide
• Varenna-Esino train station guide