Getting Around Lake Como Without a Car: Ferries, Trains, Buses & Walking

Do You Need a Car at Lake Como?

For the most popular central Lake Como itinerary, no.

You can travel between all of these by public transport:

• Milan;
• Varenna;
• Bellagio;
• Menaggio;
• parts of Tremezzina;
• Como;
• Lecco.

A car becomes more useful if you’re staying high above the lake, exploring remote villages, heading into the mountains, visiting several less-touristed areas in one day or continuing on a wider northern Italy road trip.

But if your priorities are Villa Monastero, Varenna, Bellagio and the central lake, a car can introduce as many problems as it solves.

1. Ferries: The Most Useful Way to Cross Lake Como

For sightseeing, ferries are usually the most enjoyable way to travel.

Navigazione Laghi operates the main public boat network on Lake Como. Its published services include:

• Como–Colico ordinary and fast boats;
• Bellagio–Lecco passenger boats;
• the central Bellagio–Cadenabbia–Varenna–Menaggio ferry network. (Navigazione Laghi)

The central network is the one most visitors use. It lets you move between the lake’s most famous villages without driving round the shoreline. Our Lake Como ferry guide covers the whole network, and the Varenna ferry guide covers the routes from Varenna’s own pier.

Best Ferry Routes for First-Time Visitors

Varenna → Bellagio

One of the easiest and most popular crossings. Ideal for combining Villa Monastero and Varenna in the morning with Bellagio in the afternoon. Tickets, timetables and the pier are in our Varenna to Bellagio ferry guide.

Varenna → Menaggio

Useful for reaching the western shore from Varenna.

Bellagio → Cadenabbia

Helpful for moving towards the Tremezzina area.

Como → central Lake Como

Longer passenger services run north from Como, with the scenery on both shores along the way. Our Como to Varenna guide compares the boat with the train.

Ferry Schedules Are Seasonal

Do not assume one Lake Como ferry timetable applies all year.

Navigazione Laghi publishes separate schedules for different seasons, and central-lake ferries can also differ between weekdays and Sundays or holidays.

Always search your exact travel date.

How Early Should You Arrive for a Ferry?

Navigazione Laghi recommends getting to the ticket office around 20 minutes before departure, and warns that queues can be considerable in summer and during holidays.

In July and August, treat 20 minutes as the minimum.

That matters most when you need a specific ferry, you’re connecting to a train, you’re travelling with children or you have a vehicle.

Can You Buy Lake Como Ferry Tickets Online?

Yes.

The official system lets you search by departure point, destination, date, departure time, return journey, direct services, fast services and vehicle transport where available.

For short central-lake crossings, you can also buy tickets from the ticket offices next to the main piers. Where a stop has no working ticket office on land, you can buy on board at no extra cost; if you board without a ticket at a pier whose office is open, the operator adds a €1 surcharge. (Navigazione Laghi fares)

Are There Lake Como Day Passes?

Yes. Navigazione Laghi sells free-circulation (day) tickets and circular tickets.

Do not assume a pass will save money. Under the 2026 fares, a single crossing between Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio costs €5.50 and the matching one-day pass costs €17.50. (Navigazione Laghi fares, valid from 1 April 2026)

For a simple:

Varenna → Bellagio → Varenna

two single tickets (€11) are cheaper.

For:

Varenna → Bellagio → Menaggio → Varenna

the two options come out close (three singles are €16.50), so the pass starts to pay from a fourth crossing, or when you want the freedom to hop on and off without queuing each time.

Compare prices for your own route before buying.

2. Trains: Best for Milan and Eastern Lake Como

Railways serve parts of Lake Como very well, but not the whole lake.

The eastern shore is the most useful side for train travel.

The RE8 Tirano–Sondrio–Lecco–Milano service includes Milano Centrale, Monza, Lecco, Mandello del Lario, Varenna-Esino, Bellano, Colico, Sondrio and Tirano. (Trenord)

The regional R13 Lecco–Colico–Sondrio line also serves Varenna and other eastern-shore stations.

That is what makes Varenna so convenient for travellers without a car.

Milan to Varenna by Train

Direct trains connect Milano Centrale and Varenna-Esino in about an hour, with services running roughly hourly through the day.

For travellers planning:

• Varenna;
• Villa Monastero;
• Bellagio;
• central Lake Como;

this is one of the simplest ways onto the lake. Our Milan to Lake Como by train guide explains why Varenna-Esino suits this part of the lake better than Como.

If you would rather have the train, the ferry and a guide arranged for you, the small-group day trip from Milan to Como, Bellagio and Varenna goes by train to Como and then by ferry to Bellagio and Varenna, with the train, metro and ferry tickets included.

Which Lake Como Towns Have Railway Stations?

Useful railway destinations include:

• Como;
• Lecco;
• Varenna;
• Bellano;
• Colico.

Bellagio and Menaggio do not have railway stations.

So travellers often combine rail and ferry. For example:

Milan → Varenna by train → Bellagio by ferry

or:

Milan → Varenna by train → Menaggio by ferry

This is usually simpler than trying to continue by road.

Important: Varenna-Esino Has a Short Platform

Trenord lists Varenna-Esino as one of the stations on the line with a short platform, and tells passengers not to use the last carriages for getting on and off. (Trenord RE8)

Sit towards the front half of the train, listen for the onboard announcements, and be ready at the door before Varenna if you have luggage. Our Varenna-Esino station guide covers the station and the walk down to the lake.

Train or Ferry Around Lake Como?

Neither replaces the other.

Use trains for longer overland journeys and ferries for crossing between the central-lake villages.

Varenna → Bellagio

Take the ferry.

Varenna → Milan

Take the train.

Varenna → Lecco

The train is the straightforward choice.

Varenna → Menaggio

Take the ferry.

Como → Varenna

Both boat and rail options exist. The ferry is more scenic, while the train may suit travellers who want speed or a route that doesn’t depend on the weather.

The easiest Lake Como trips use each kind of transport where it works best, instead of insisting on one system for everything.

3. Buses: Essential on Parts of the Western Shore

Buses matter more on the western side of Lake Como, where railway coverage is much more limited.

ASF Autolinee runs many of the bus services around Como and the western lake, with seasonal schedules. (ASF Autolinee)

When Are Buses Most Useful?

Buses are particularly useful for:

• towns without train stations;
• western-shore journeys;
• places beyond the most convenient ferry routes;
• times when the ferry schedule doesn’t fit.

For central-lake sightseeing, though, ferries are usually more intuitive. If you can go Varenna → Bellagio by ferry, there is little reason to piece together a bus route.

Western Lake Como by Bus

A main road runs from Como along the western side of the lake towards Menaggio and farther north.

Buses are therefore useful if you’re staying in Tremezzina, around Argegno, near Menaggio or in smaller western-shore communities.

Road traffic can slow them down, though, particularly in the busy summer months when the narrow lakeside roads become congested.

Ferry or Bus on the Western Shore?

If a suitable ferry exists, it is often the more pleasant option.

Choose the ferry for:

• scenery;
• predictable cross-lake travel;
• avoiding road traffic;
• the central tourist villages.

Choose the bus for:

• inland destinations;
• villages without useful ferry stops;
• later services in some areas;
• routes where boats are infrequent.

A good public-transport itinerary often uses both.

4. Walking: Best Once You Reach a Village

Lake Como is not walkable as one continuous sightseeing destination. The lake is far too large.

Individual towns, on the other hand, are excellent on foot.

Varenna

Varenna is particularly walkable. You can walk between:

• Varenna-Esino station;
• the ferry pier;
• the Passeggiata degli Innamorati;
• the historic centre;
• Villa Cipressi;
• Villa Monastero.

The important detail is that Varenna isn’t flat. Expect:

• steps;
• cobbles;
• steep lanes;
• uphill sections.

A distance that looks short on a map can feel much longer when you are carrying luggage.

Walking from Varenna Station to the Ferry

This is one of the most common connections.

From Varenna-Esino you walk downhill towards the waterfront. Coming back from the ferry to the station means walking uphill.

If you’re arriving back from Bellagio and catching a train to Milan, don’t plan a five-minute connection. Give yourself enough time to make the climb comfortably.

Walking to Castello di Vezio

Castello di Vezio is walkable from Varenna, but it is a proper uphill walk, not a village stroll.

It suits travellers who want a viewpoint, a short hike and a change from the lakeside sights. The Castello di Vezio entry ticket can be booked ahead, and our Castello di Vezio guide covers both walking routes.

If your day already includes Villa Monastero and Bellagio, check you have enough time before adding the castle.

Can You Walk Around Lake Como?

Not in the sense of casually walking the whole shoreline.

The lake is large, mountainous and broken up by roads, private properties and steep terrain.

There are excellent hiking routes along sections of it, including the Sentiero del Viandante on the eastern side, but that is a long-distance trail, nothing like a stroll round a compact city lake.

For ordinary sightseeing, think:

transport between towns + walking within towns

5. Taxis and Private Transfers

Taxis are useful, but treat them as a supplement, not the default way to travel around Lake Como.

Consider one if:

• you arrive late;
• you have heavy luggage;
• your hotel is uphill;
• you’re staying away from public transport;
• you need to reach an attraction at a precise time.

For Varenna’s main sights you generally don’t need one. Villa Monastero, the ferry and the historic centre are all reachable on foot for visitors comfortable with slopes and steps.

Is Uber Available at Lake Como?

Do not build an itinerary around ride-hailing working the way it does in a big city.

Lake Como’s smaller villages have fewer vehicles and less predictable on-demand availability.

If a transfer is essential, especially early in the morning or late in the evening, booking a local taxi or a hotel transfer in advance is safer than assuming a car will turn up.

6. Driving: When a Car Does Help

Despite the advantages of public transport, there are situations where a car is useful.

Consider renting one if your itinerary includes:

• mountain villages;
• remote accommodation;
• areas well away from ferry stops;
• several rural destinations;
• onward travel through Lombardy or the Alps.

A car can also help outside the main season, when ferry schedules are reduced.

Driving around Lake Como has its drawbacks, though. Expect:

• narrow roads;
• summer congestion;
• difficult parking;
• restricted historic centres;
• expensive parking near popular attractions.

If you plan only Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio, public transport is normally easier.

Is Varenna a Good Base Without a Car?

Yes, and it is one of the best.

Varenna combines:

• direct rail connections;
• central Lake Como ferry access;
• walkable attractions;
• Villa Monastero;
• Villa Cipressi;
• restaurants and accommodation.

From Varenna you can reach Bellagio and Menaggio by ferry, and Milan, Lecco and Bellano by train. That mix of rail and ferry access is hard to beat. Our complete Varenna guide covers the village itself.

Is Bellagio a Good Base Without a Car?

Yes, especially if ferries are your main transport.

Bellagio sits at the centre of the lake and has excellent boat connections. Its disadvantage compared with Varenna is that there is no railway station.

To reach Milan from Bellagio, travellers normally combine a ferry to Varenna and the train, a bus or boat towards Como and the train, or a private road transfer.

If rail access matters, Varenna has the advantage.

Is Menaggio a Good Base Without a Car?

Also yes.

Menaggio has strong ferry connections across the central lake and bus connections along the western shore. It is particularly useful for exploring Tremezzina and western Lake Como.

Like Bellagio, it has no train station of its own.

Is Como a Good Base Without a Car?

Definitely.

Como has major railway connections, plenty of buses, ferry services and a sizeable city centre. It works particularly well for the southern lake.

The trade-off is distance. If your priorities are Varenna, Bellagio and central Lake Como, staying in Como means travelling farther each day than you would from Varenna.

Best Base for a Car-Free Lake Como Trip

There is no single answer.

Choose Varenna if you prioritise:

• Villa Monastero;
• Bellagio;
• central Lake Como;
• direct Milan trains.

Choose Bellagio if you prioritise:

• central ferry access;
• restaurants and a lively evening atmosphere;
• staying in the most famous village.

Choose Menaggio if you prioritise:

• western-shore exploration;
• central ferries;
• access towards Tremezzina.

Choose Como if you prioritise:

• city amenities;
• strong rail connections;
• southern Lake Como.

For a first trip that pairs Villa Monastero with Bellagio, Varenna is the most convenient base.

How to Get Around Lake Como from Milan

If you’re staying in Milan and visiting for one day, choose one gateway instead of trying to circle the whole lake.

For Varenna and Bellagio

Take:

Milano Centrale → Varenna-Esino

Then:

Varenna → Bellagio by ferry

Then return:

Bellagio → Varenna → Milan

Our Lake Como day trip from Milan plans that day hour by hour.

For Como City

Travel directly to Como, then use ferries or buses locally.

Do not head for Como just because the destination is called “Lake Como”. Choose the part of the lake first.

One-Day Car-Free Lake Como Itinerary

For a first visit:

Morning

Train from Milan to Varenna.

Late morning

Explore Varenna and visit Villa Monastero. The Villa Monastero ticket with an aperitif fixes the date before you travel and adds a drink on the villa’s terrace.

Lunch

Stay in Varenna.

Afternoon

Ferry to Bellagio.

Late afternoon

Return by ferry to Varenna.

Evening

Train back to Milan.

The itinerary works because every transport link has a clear purpose. Our one-day Varenna and Bellagio itinerary fills in the detail.

Two-Day Car-Free Itinerary

Day 1 — Varenna + Bellagio

Use train, walking and ferry.

Day 2 — Menaggio + Tremezzina

Use central-lake ferries and local transport on the western shore.

That gives you a much broader sense of Lake Como without needing to drive.

Three-Day Car-Free Itinerary

Day 1

Varenna + Villa Monastero.

Day 2

Bellagio + Villa Melzi.

Day 3

Menaggio or Tremezzina + Villa Carlotta (the museum and garden entry ticket can be booked in advance) or another western-shore attraction.

This is far more satisfying than changing towns every two hours. Our guide to which Lake Como villas to visit helps you choose between them.

Getting Around Lake Como by Season

Summer

Summer has the most tourist services and also the biggest crowds. Expect busy ferries, ticket queues, congested roads and crowded buses. Leave earlier, avoid very tight connections and visit fewer towns in a day.

Spring

Spring is excellent for sightseeing by public transport. Ferry schedules expand as the season gets going, and crowds are generally lower than in midsummer.

September

September remains one of the easiest months for car-free sightseeing, with good ferry connections and pleasant conditions for walking.

October

October still works, but schedules begin to change. Recheck your plans around the timetable changeover.

Winter

Winter takes more planning. Trains remain very useful on the eastern shore, but ferries may run less often and attractions can keep shorter hours. For the lake month by month, see our best time to visit Lake Como guide.

What Happens During Transport Strikes?

Train, ferry and bus strikes each have their own rules and guaranteed service periods.

If a strike is announced, check the operator concerned instead of assuming your normal timetable still applies.

What If the Ferry Is Cancelled?

Weather or operational problems can affect services. Your fallback depends on where you are.

From Varenna

Rail is very useful for destinations along the eastern shore and towards Milan.

From Bellagio

Bus or road transport may be alternatives, but they are less direct for some journeys.

From Menaggio

Western-shore buses can provide alternatives.

This is another reason Varenna makes such a strong transport base: you have both rail and lake options.

Public Transport with Luggage

Lake Como is entirely manageable without a car even when you change hotels, but luggage changes the experience.

The problem isn’t usually the train or the ferry. It’s the village streets. Expect:

• cobbles;
• staircases;
• slopes;
• narrow paths.

Before booking accommodation, look at the actual route from the ferry pier or railway station, not only the distance. A hotel 400 metres away may involve a substantial climb.

Public Transport with Children

Ferries are particularly good with children because the journey itself is entertaining. Trains between Milan and Varenna are straightforward too.

The harder parts can be waiting in summer queues, steep village streets and over-ambitious itineraries.

With children, plan fewer destinations. Varenna + Bellagio is far more manageable than four villages in one day.

Is Public Transport at Lake Como Reliable?

Generally, yes, but don’t plan it as if you’re using a city metro.

The main difference is frequency. Miss a train or ferry and you may wait much longer than five minutes.

Services can also be affected by weather, maintenance, strikes, seasonal timetable changes and heavy summer demand.

Build buffers into important connections. Lake Como feels much easier when every journey isn’t scheduled to the minute.

Google Maps vs Official Timetables

Use journey-planning apps for orientation. Use the official operators for final confirmation:

Ferries

Navigazione Laghi.

Trains

Trenord.

Western-shore buses

ASF Autolinee.

This matters most around timetable changes.

Common Mistakes When Getting Around Lake Como

1. Assuming the lake has one circular railway.
2. Assuming Bellagio has a train station.
3. Driving because public transport looks complicated.
4. Treating every ferry as identical.
5. Using old timetables.
6. Planning connections with no buffer.
7. Underestimating the walking.
8. Trying to see too much.
9. Assuming buses won’t hit traffic.
10. Renting a car before deciding where you’ll stay.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best way to get around Lake Como? For most visitors, a combination of ferries, trains and walking. Buses are particularly useful on the western shore and for towns without railway stations.

Can you visit Lake Como without a car? Yes. Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio and Como can all be part of a car-free itinerary using trains, ferries and buses.

Is Varenna easy without a car? Yes. Varenna has a railway station, a ferry pier and walkable attractions including Villa Monastero.

Does Bellagio have a train station? No. Bellagio is reached by ferry, bus or road.

Does Menaggio have a train station? No. Ferry and bus connections are what matter for Menaggio.

Can you take a train around Lake Como? Only around certain sections. Trains are most useful along the eastern shore and for Como and Lecco connections. They do not circle the lake.

Can you travel around Lake Como by ferry? Ferries serve many of the most important visitor destinations, especially around the central lake. Routes and frequencies vary by season.

Are buses useful around Lake Como? Yes, particularly along the western shore and for places without railway stations.

Is it better to rent a car? Only for some itineraries. If you’re staying in Varenna and mainly visiting Bellagio, Menaggio and nearby villas, a car is usually unnecessary.

The Best Way to Travel Around Lake Como Without a Car

Don’t look for one kind of transport that will take you everywhere.

Use trains where the railway is strong, ferries where the lake gives the shortest route, buses where trains don’t go and your own feet once you arrive.

For a first trip, Varenna makes this particularly easy.

Arrive from Milan by train. Walk to Villa Monastero. Cross to Bellagio by ferry. Take another ferry to Menaggio or the western shore if you have more time. Then return to Varenna and take the train onward.

That is not a compromise for travellers without a car. For much of central Lake Como, it is one of the best ways to experience the lake.

Related Reading

• Varenna ferry guide
• Lake Como ferry guide
• Milan to Lake Como by train
• Varenna-Esino station guide
• Do you need tickets for Lake Como?